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Note: Step 36 has you hand tack/hand stitch some areas of the lining to the outer shell. I slipstitched my hem facing to the outer layer before I basted the top closed. I have now slipstitched two jackets, one at the end of construction and one before I closed the top. Honestly, I have found little difference between them as far as one way making things easier.

This is the home stretch Salamanca sew alongers! Today we are looking at the final construction steps of our jackets. Last week’s post was a day late but I am making up for it by posting this week two days early! This weekend I am attending this awesome sewing event so thought I would get a head start to the weekend.

Okay, so let’s look at our sleeves. I am in love with the way the lining is sewn in our jackets including how these lined sleeves come together. I have to admit when I took my first look I was “huh?” But, it all comes together quite nicely and effortlessly!

There are just a couple issues in which to be aware. Things can get a bit confusing so it is best to work with one side at a time keeping the other sleeve and lining tucked in and out of the way. Also, it is important the sleeves do not become twisted during the process. Keep the sleeve seams facing each other as you organize and prepare to sew and you can avoid this problem. (Click then hover over photo to see text!)

Pin. Pin. Pin with right sides together (sleeves will be facing each other at this point as illustrated in line drawing number 24). I am not a big pinner anymore after taking this Craftsy class and I became aware of how pinning was slowing me down, but here, they are absolutely essential. Don’t be pin shy, load the sleeve up.


Line up seams and pin all around, right sides together.

Now baste in place! It only takes a moment and is well worth the little bit of extra effort.


After basting take a look and make sure all is in order and your sleeve is not twisted and then go back and sew the seam. I removed my sewing table to have more room and kept checking to make sure everything underneath was out of the way.


Go slow. It is okay to sew slow! Slow is good here. If everything is correct, when you turn the sleeve right side out, the hem will fold up to the lining inside. It looks sooo purrrrty and such a nice clean finish.


Repeat for the other side and ta-da! your sleeves are complete!

Now time to attach our collars. Baste your lining and shell together at the top. Here is where I made a design choice other than what the pattern calls for. I am not a huge fan of gathers on raglan sleeves. I have larger arms and nice full shoulders. Gathers draw attention and make things seem larger in my opinion. The only time I like to use gathers is at a waistline to draw it in as on this dress or to enhance my bustline. They are marvelous for that!

I decided to use an inverted pleat instead that sits right at the shoulder point. This is a simple adjustment.

Prepare your yokes as instructed.


Make sure the circles are marked on your uninterfaced yoke.


Line these circles up with your raglan sleeve seams as instructed in step 30 as you are pinning your collar. Now begin to push all your fabric in toward the collar seam that sits in the middle of the raglan sleeve when complete. The middle of your inverted pleat will sit right at the seam. Pin on both sides of the seam to hold your pleat in place.




Now sew the collar as instructed in steps 30-32. I did not understitch the collar. I just pulled my inside yoke a bit further over to give that top seam a gentle nudge to the inside. I kind of have gone off of understitching after a few ugly disasters. I basted my collar in place to avoid pulls and then hand stitched it down with a fell stitch.

That is all for this week! Next week we will put on our closures!  I would love to see your progress on the Itch to Stitch fb page!

A reminder: Kennis has graciously offered up a couple of prizes from her shop and will be available to answer questions via her fb page. To be eligible for the prize, you must complete the sew along. Also, she is offering 20% off the Salamanca pattern for those who want to sew along. Discount code is: salamancasal and is valid until 4/15/16. Pattern is available here.

March 16th – Introductory Post

March 18th – Determining size, preparing pattern, fabric choices Post

March 23rd – Making a muslin and adjusting fit issues Post

March 25th – Cutting fashion fabric, applying interfacing, preparing to sew Post

March 30th – Sew outer shell, sew lining shell Post

April 1st (2nd) – Attaching hem facing, sewing lining to outer shell Post

April 8th (6th) – Sleeves, attaching yoke

April 13th – Adding closures

April 20th  – Gallery of finishes, prizes awarded!

See you on Friday!

P.S. Come join us for sew a long fun at Sewalongs and Sewing Contest fb page! A fun group of sewists who come together quarterly to sew seasonal wardrobe pieces! Oh, and there are prizes!

P.S.S. I am destashing! Lots of fabrics, notions, books, magazines! You are welcome to post sewing items for sale as well! Judy’s Destash.