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Hello Sew Lovelies! Today we begin to sew our jackets!!


See end of post for a great coupon Kennis has generously supplied!

In this post we will be completing steps 5 through 13 of the pattern instructions, assembling both our outer jacket and lining shell. These steps actually go pretty quick if you don’t do like I did and make mistakes or change your mind about things midsew!

Because my fabric had a bit of stretch and this version of the jacket is unlined I began by staystitching about ¼” inside the 3/8” seam allowance on both my front and back neckline prior to putting in the pleat to avoid any stretching of my fabric.


Actually, further along in the project I realized it would have been easier to just serge all around my pieces as I ended up doing that anyway! However, I had started out with one plan on finishing my seams (Hong Kong finish) but ended up doing something different (serge finish) which caused me to take some unnecessary sewing steps along the way and to skip ones I needed later.

Lesson learned: decide on a seam finish up front, have what you need to complete that finish and stick with it!

I also considered a double welt (I have always called these jetted pockets) pocket and did a little practice using this great tutorial by Kennis. Also, here and here are videos on constructing a welt that are quite good.


My practice pocket. I was pretty pleased with how it turned out.

I decided against the jetted pocket because I plan for the jacket to be free of closures except for one button at the very top and my jacket will hang open. I did not want the interfacing and pocket bag to show so in the end I skipped it. After I had constructed my shell I actually thought of a cute way to include the pocket with pretty design details on the inside. I guess that is for a later jacket!! Sigh.

Next, the front self facing edge was serge finished and the finished edge turned under a scant ¼”. The edge was then topstitched down.


The pins are holding my pleat in place. I re-basted them down over the top edge of the facing once the facing was secure.

At this point, I realized my pleats were very uneven. Not sure how that happened, but take a moment to double check your front pleat placement and adjust as necessary. I decided to unpick a few basting stitches holding the pleats so the facing would lie underneath the pleat versus on top.

Now on to the sleeves which were easy peasy. The sleeve hem was serge finished and the sleeve turned up and topstitched just as the front facing had been. I have discovered an affinity for deep hems, don’t know why but I love them.


Now I was on step 8 where we start sewing all the pieces together. That part went pretty quick. If you are sewing the lined version complete both the shell and lining.

My unlined version is ready for the yoke (now to catch up with the lined version):


All done for today. On Friday, we will our add facings and sew the lining to the shell. After Friday, things slow down a bit so if you are just getting started or need to catch up there will be some time!

A reminder: Kennis has graciously offered up a couple of prizes from her shop and will be available to answer questions via her fb page. To be eligible for the prize, you must complete the sew along. Also, she is offering 20% off the Salamanca pattern for those who want to sew along. Discount code is: salamancasal and is valid until 4/15/16. Pattern is available here.

March 16th – Introductory Post

March 18th – Determining size, preparing pattern, fabric choices Post

March 23rd – Making a muslin and adjusting fit issues Post

March 25th – Cutting fashion fabric, applying interfacing, preparing to sew Post

March 30th – Sew outer shell, sew lining shell

April 1st – Attaching hem facing, sewing lining to outer shell

April 8th – Sleeves, attaching yoke

April 13th – Adding closures

April 20th  – Gallery of finishes, prizes awarded!

See you on Friday!

P.S. Come join us for sew a long fun at Sewalongs and Sewing Contest fb page! A fun group of sewists who come together quarterly to sew seasonal wardrobe pieces! Oh, and there are prizes!