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Important note: The notches and gathering dots on this pattern are very important for construction. If you make alterations do not forget to make the appropriate changes or edits to your pattern markings.

Salamanca-Cropped-Jacket-Product-Hero-509x756 Happy Wednesday and welcome back to the Salamanca Jacket sew along!

Today we will begin sewing up our muslin and checking fit. I am using my tester version as my muslin with a possible minimal change; reducing a bit of the curve at top center front of my jacket yoke.

For your test version, it is good if you can use a fabric that is similar in weight and drape to your fashion fabric but that is not always possible. If you can not get close, take that in to consideration when you are assessing your muslin fit. Also, remember your muslin will not be lined and in your final version that lining will take up some space.

You will need the following pattern pieces for your test (number in parentheses denotes the pattern piece number): Front (1) in your cup size, Back (2), Front Yoke (3), Back yoke (4), Sleeve (5),

The jacket is pretty straight forward except for the gathered raglan sleeves which can present a bit of a fitting problem. An issue you may experience is bunching of fabric at the front or back of the sleeve. (See many tester versions in this ITS post  and check out their sleeve fit). Overall, my sleeve fit was pretty good.

cropjacket1

However, you might find you need or want to take out some excess fabric or reshape the front or back of the raglan. To get an idea of how to do this, page 19 of this Linda Lee pdf provides some general information.

http://sewingworkshop.com/files/Fitting_Shoulders-April.pdf

Here is an in depth look at fba adjustment with raglan sleeves from Colette.

Also, some information on excess fabric at front of sleeve can be found here:

If you plan on changing the shape of the collar here and here are some general ideas and fit concepts.

On Friday, we will be begin cutting our fashion fabric and lining and apply interfacing so make sure you have some interfacing available. I try to prepare all the notions I will need and have my fabrics preshrink, pressed and ready to go the day before I actually want to start sewing.

A reminder: Kennis has graciously offered up a couple of prizes from her shop and will be available to answer questions via her fb page. To be eligible for the prize, you must complete the sew along. Also, she is offering 20% off the Salamanca pattern for those who want to sew along. Discount code is: salamancasal and is valid until 4/15/16. Pattern is available here.

Last, please note the change of the sew along schedule. I have started a part time job and need to slow things down a bit.

March 16th – Introductory Post

March 18th – Determining size, preparing pattern, fabric choices Post

March 23rd – Making a muslin and adjusting fit issues

March 25th – Cutting fashion fabric, applying interfacing, preparing to sew

March 30th – Sew outer shell, sew lining shell

April 1st – Attaching hem facing, sewing lining to outer shell

April 8th – Sleeves, attaching yoke

April 13th – Adding closures

April 20th  – Gallery of finishes, prizes awarded!

See you on Friday!

P.S. Come join us for sew a long fun at Sewalongs and Sewing Contest fb page! A fun group of sewists who come together monthly and/or quarterly to sew all types of garments and stuff! Oh, and there are prizes!

 

 

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