Hello and welcome back to the Salamanca Jacket sew along! If you are just joining us, here a link to the introductory post. Today, we are looking at sizing, preparing our pattern and selecting fabric.
Salamanca Size Chart:
My general experience with Itch to Stitch (ITS) patterns is they run a bit larger than I am use to in comparison to ready to wear and definitely in comparison with other independent designers. I almost always can size down. I am a solid 14 bodice, sometimes 16 with other patterns but I regularly sew a size 12 ITS pattern. Kennis does provide the finished garment measurements which is what I go by when choosing my size.
The pattern also has different pattern pieces for different cup sizes so you will need to measure your cup size which is explained thoroughly in the pattern instructions. Here and here are some additional links if you need additional instructions. Again, I was right on the edge of being able to go up to the D cup but here I went with my ready to wear sizing in bras which is a C cup since this is not a form fitted garment.
I do encourage you to take a look at other completions here and assess those body types and the Salamanca fit against what you know about your own. When determining my size, according to Kennis’ size chart and finished garment measurements, I was solidly a size 14 but looking at two things, the sleeve design and the collar height including the way it laid, I knew those two areas would be problems for me in the larger size. I did not want to have to do a shoulder alteration on a raglan sleeve (more on that later). As far as sleeve length, I could just shorten the sleeve if need be. I could have actually measured the pattern pieces to confirm (this is a little tricky when gathering is involved) everything but being familiar with Kennis’ sizing, I felt I was solid ground just by looking at the way the sleeve fit other testers.
I only printed the pages I needed, again Kennis provides a chart in the instructions which explain which pieces to print. I always, always, always have problems printing a pdf pattern. For many months I was using an old version of Acrobat which I did not realize and it was printing things funky and with chopped edges or off center. Make sure you have the current version! I still have things print weird but it is never anything major and I make sure to measure the test box. For some reason this pattern printed with no margin on one side and a big margin on the other. Why? No idea, but my test box was good so I just proceeded with taping the pattern.
You also only have to print out your size which is explained in the directions. This is such a super cool feature of pdf patterns if you need to grade between sizes. I am to the point now where if the single size feature is not available on a pattern I consider a different pattern because otherwise I am tracing and taking up precious sewing time.
Now the fun part. Fabric, fabric, fabric!! The sew along allows time for a quick unlined muslin version so grab some fabric for that then start thinking about fashion fabric if you have not already. In my tester version I used a very stable lightweight cotton twill/home décor type fabric. It was like sewing butter, no stretching or shifting – very stable under the needle, loved the iron, just perfect. I am not 100% sure but believe my lining on the test version is a rayon or a polyester blend. Both were thrown in the washing machine and they both came out fine. Due to the color of my main fabric – mainly white, it will requiring washing, so I needed to make sure both fabrics were washable. I did not dry my lining fabric though, just put in out in the sun a bit. Both washed and dried beautifully.
Above are my fabrics for the sew along – a nice mid-weight denim with slight stretch on the left for the unlined version and for the lined version a medium weight twill with the slightest stretch and a bemberg lining. Both are washable. I plan on a hong kong seam finish for the unlined version in red or something similar.
If you get the chance please head over to the ITS fb page and post pictures of your fabric choices. Questions can be posted here or at the fb page or both!
Kennis has graciously offered up a couple of prizes from her shop and will be available to answer questions via her fb page. To eligible for the prize, you must complete the sew along. Also, she is offering 20% off the Salamanca pattern for those who want to sew along. Discount code is: salamancasal and is valid until 4/15/16. Pattern is available here.
See you next week!
The schedule will be as follows (please note schedule is subject to change based on the needs of a husband, college student and 17 year old soon to graduate):
March 16th – Introductory Post, Schedule
March 18th – This Post
March 23rd – Making a muslin and adjusting fit issues
March 25th – Cutting fashion fabric, applying interfacing, preparing to sew
March 30th – Sew outer shell, sew lining shell
April 1st – Attaching hem facing, sewing lining to outer shell
April 6th – Sleeves, attaching yoke
April 13th – Adding closures
April 15th – Gallery of finishes, prizes awarded!
P.S. Come join us for sew a long fun at Sewalongs and Sewing Contest fb page! A fun group of sewists who come together monthly and/or quarterly to sew all types of garments and stuff! Oh, and there are prizes!